Leather Biodegradability: Another Reason to Embrace Leather
We often hear about massive floating ”islands” of plastic polluting our oceans. But have you ever wondered why leather is never part of that conversation
One possible explanation: leather is a natural, biodegradable material. Unlike plastic, which lingers in the environment for centuries, leather naturally breaks down at the end of its life.
When produced using natural or biobased tanning agents and biodegradable additives, leather can decompose in industrial composting in as little as 20 days (as highlighted in Karl Flowers’ article, “Opportunities at Leather’s End-of-Life,” ILM, Sep-Oct 2024). That’s a timeframe comparable to vegetable waste, which takes 5–30 days!
Let’s be clear: all materials eventually biodegrade, but what sets leather apart is its ability to decompose quickly (20–60 days) and safely for the environment, transforming—under the right conditions—into compost that enriches the soil with vital nutrients.
This unique feature makes leather not only a valuable part of the circular economy, but also one of the most sustainable fashion materials.
And that’s just one of many reasons to choose leather!
Biodegradability refers to the process by which organic materials are broken down by microorganisms into simpler components like carbon dioxide, water, and ammonia.
Compostability, a measure of biodegradation, refers to the ability of a material to break down into biomass without releasing harmful or toxic substances—provided it does not contain hazardous components that persist after decomposition.
Any leather can be composted but the speed of degradation and environmental impact depends on the tanning chemistry used.
Producing fully biodegradable leather requires advanced technological solutions, and the industry is making incredible strides in this area. But even conventionally produced European leather demonstrates the ability to decompose naturally, and here are the studies to back it up.
A Study of the Composting Capacity of Different Kinds of Leathers, Leatherette, and Alternatives
The study demonstrated that genuine leather, especially alginate-treated, fully degrades within 21–25 days, with wet-blue leather degrading in 31–35 days. Alternatives like leatherette, Piñatex®, and Desserto® showed no degradation after 90 days, underscoring leather’s superior biodegradability compared to synthetic and plant-based substitutes.
Material Circular Bioeconomy: Disintegration and Biodegradability of Leather and Trendy Alternatives
Vegetable-tanned leather compost promoted 74% more plant growth and proved suitable for agriculture, showcasing leather’s capacity to enrich soils. Meanwhile, most fake leather alternatives showed poor biodegradability, raising significant waste concerns at the end of their life.
Compost-Leather_able II Project
Compost-Leather-Able II Project (INESCOP, IVACE & ERDF)
This study demonstrated that all five tested leather types, featuring various tannages and finishes, exhibited high biodegradability and compostability under lab conditions. However, polymeric finishes sometimes degraded slower than leather, leaving residual fractions in compost.
Assessment of the Biodegradability and Compost of Finished Leathers
These findings underscore the potential of eco-friendly finishes to reduce the environmental footprint of leather production, promoting sustainability and further aligning leather with circular economy goals. Bio-based finishes showed strong biodegradability, while traditional finishes exhibited moderate levels. Notably, some finishes enhanced plant growth during composting, highlighting leather’s potential for eco-friendly practices in production.
Leather stands out as the most sustainable material available
With its ability to “transform waste into beauty”, support closed-loop production cycles, and naturally return to the environment at the end of its service life, leather stands out as one of the most sustainable materials available. Its unique properties make it a crucial ally in achieving the goals of the EU Green Deal, supporting the success of key regulations like the Ecodesign, Waste Framework & Green Claims Directives.
