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NEWS 8/2024
European Leather Industry Provides Scientific Evidence in Support of Excluding Leather from the Scope of the EUDR
Leather is not the driver of deforestation—this is obvious to anyone involved in the leather supply chain, from livestock producers to fashion brands. Yet, with leather included in the scope of the European Deforestation Regulation (EUDR), it became essential to support this fact with comprehensive analysis.
With this September newsletter, we are proud to present scientific evidence supporting the European leather industry’s position in the EUDR Review. The study, “Socio-economic and Environmental Analysis of the Effects of Regulation 2023/1115/EU on the European Leather Sector,” commissioned by UNIC and COTANCE and conducted by Sant’Anna School of Advanced Studies of the University of Pisa, was unveiled on September 18, 2024, at the Lineapelle Fair to become a game-changer in defence of our industry.
The study, structured into technical, socio-economic, and environmental assessments,
reveals key findings that will be instrumental for the leather industry during the EUDR review process.
No Direct Link to Deforestation: The study, supported by an extensive technical analysis (94 million+ records, 29,200+ active serial titles, and 330,000+ books) and 28 stakeholder interviews, found no direct link between leather and deforestation. Leather is derived from cattle raised primarily for meat and dairy, and its production does not incentivise cattle farming.
At the EUDR event in Lineapelle, a panel of global industry experts unanimously agreed: including leather in the EUDR is illogical and will not reduce cattle-related deforestation. Instead, it risks disrupting supply chains and shifting production to regions with lower environmental standards.
Panel participants from left to right: Ricardo Andrade (CICB, Brazil), Toni Baltes (German Hide Association WHL, ICHSLTA), Max Engelke (A+B-hides), Micaela Topper (AHSLEA, Australia), Kevin Latner (LHCA, USA) and Dave Harrison (Beef+Lamb, New Zealand).
| COTANCE stands firm in advocating for the removal of leather from the EUDR scope, presenting the Sant’Anna study in support of its argument. This academic investigation will be providing crucial intelligence in the context of the European Commission’s review of the regulation.Stay tuned for more updates as COTANCE continues to engage with policymakers and stakeholders to safeguard the interests of the European leather industry. |
| If you want to go further: Socio-economic and Environmental Analysis of the Effects of Regulation 2023/1115/EU on the European Leather Sector | Study ”EPP demands delay of ’bureaucratic monster’ deforestation law” | Article ”Deforestation in the leather supply chain takes centre stage in Milan and Paris” | Article Share Tweet Forward Share |
NEWS 7/2024
Dive Into Leather: Summer Edition.
Welcome to our Summer Edition! With the COTANCE July newsletter, we invite you to spend these summer holidays immersed in the world of leather.
Explore the UNESCO Sheep Value Chain in Millau, France, a centre for leather production since the Middle Ages. Attend leather craftsmanship workshops, read about the leather, or consider joining upcoming leather-related events.
Exploring the famous Sheep Value Chain
Millau has been a centre for leather production since the Middle Ages. Its historical significance in sheep farming and glove-making has shaped the region’s identity over the centuries. The traditional craft of glove-making in Millau is particularly renowned, with techniques passed down through generations.
That is why its inclusion in the Intangible Cultural Heritage in France, followed by the ongoing process of its inclusion in UNESCO’s prestigious World Heritage List, highlights the importance of the sheep value chain in Millau. This recognition celebrates the harmonious integration of sheep farming with leather production, emphasizing sustainable practices and artisanal skills. It acknowledges the role of local craftsmen and women in preserving traditional methods while adapting to modern demands.
Cultural Experiences and Attractions:
– Visit the Millau Glove Museum to explore the history of glove-making. The museum features an impressive collection of gloves, historical artefacts, and exhibits on traditional crafting techniques.
2. Local Tanneries:
– Take a tour of local tanneries to see the traditional tanning process up close. Many tanneries in Millau offer guided tours where visitors can learn about the craftsmanship and methods used to produce high-quality leather.
3. Sheep Farming Tours:
– Experience the region’s sheep farming firsthand. Tours often include visits to local farms, where you can learn about sheep breeds, wool production, and the integral role of sheep in the local economy.
4. Cultural Festivals:
– Millau hosts various cultural festivals throughout the year that celebrate its leather and sheep farming heritage. These events feature artisan markets, live demonstrations, and traditional performances.
Millau offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in a region where tradition meets craftsmanship. Whether you’re interested in the art of leather-making, the history of sheep farming, or simply enjoying the beautiful French countryside, Millau provides an enriching experience.
For more information and to plan your visit, check local tourism resources and heritage sites in Millau: https://www.explore-millau.com/
“Field, Fork, Fashion” by Alice V Robinson
In this personal investigation into ethical and traceable leather, fashion designer Alice Robinson begins a ground-breaking journey into the origin story of leather and its connection to food and farming.
“Leather and Footwear Sustainability” editor Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu
This book examines the manufacturing, supply chain and product-level sustainability of leather and footwear products, also exploring interesting areas of leather and footwear sustainability, such as waste & the 3R’s and their certification for sustainability.
Sustainable Leather Forum
9-10 September, Paris
The Sustainable Leather Forum (SLF) is the first international event dedicated to CSR in the leather industries, held in Paris, France. It gathers over 400 international participants, including major fashion corporations, SMEs, institutional bodies, and consultancies, to discuss social, environmental, and economic issues and share CSR best practices.
Lineapelle
17-19 September, Milan
LINEAPELLE is the most important international exhibition dedicated to leather, accessories, components, synthetics and models for footwear, leather goods, garments and furniture.
Studio Leatherworking Training
(also available online)
Atelier Grinda
leather school/tutorials
We wish you a pleasant summer holiday and hope you enjoy discovering the wonderful world of leather this summer!
Best Regards,
COTANCE Secretariat
If you want to go further:
Explore Millau – leather-related activities Website
Leatherbiz about Millau | Article
Intangible Cultural Heritage of the Pays de Millau | Website
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Debunking Myths: Andrea Bertaglio on the Role of Leather and Livestock in Sustainability
Andrea Bertagliois an independent journalist, spokesperson for European Livestock Voice and author of the book “In defence of Meat”. He is known for his in-depth knowledge of the meat industry and is therefore perfectly placed to give insight into the importance of livestock and leather sectors, their crucial roles in the circular economy, and their joint challenges in times of greenwashing.
Answering the question on the relationship between animal livestock and humans,Andrea Bertaglio said: “Humankind and livestock have been proceeding together since the dawn of time. Meat made us humans. Without animal foods, we couldn’t develop our brains as they are. Without hunting, we couldn’t have organised our first ways of communication and our first kind of communities and societies. And if we speak about modern farming, we speak of nutrition, culture, traditions, know-how, economy, and hundreds of other things. Livestock is an incredibly important part of human life, and I hope it can still be like that for a very long time”. Answering the question on the relationship between animal livestock and humans,
The same is true for leather, which has long been in the history of man. Findings from the archaeological site in Schöningen (Lower Saxony) show that it dates back 320 000 years. An engraving was found on the remains of a bear’s skin, which evidences that hominids in northern Europe also hunted bears and skinned them to get meat and to use their hide to protect themselves from the cold. Leather features in human history.
Old Tannery in Pompeii
Photo credits: UNIC – Concerie Italiane
“We have leather because it is a by-product from meat production. And it has been like that since prehistorical times, I suppose. One of the best and oldest examples of ”circular economy”. It simply makes sense. Otherwise, it would be like picking a fruit only to keep the peel, which is absurd. Besides, leather is a great product: instead of being disposed of as waste, hides and skins are transformed into one of the most durable, enjoyable, and sustainable products ever”, the journalist continued.
”Leather is the most bio-friendly in the car and is the most natural, sustainable, environmentally good by-product of the meat industry. The cows are not being grown for their leather”, – says nutritionist Diana Rodgers
Furthermore, leather is a natural material that can be repaired, reused, and repurposed, highlighting its crucial role in the circular economy and establishing it as a prime choice for sustainable practices.
Despite these facts, both the leather and meat industries are facing a wave of unjustified accusations and manipulations from radical activist, vegan societies, whose deceptive narratives are likely to fall into the scope of the upcoming EU “Green Claims” Directive.
As an independent journalist, writing nearly two decades on environment and sustainability, Andrea Bertaglio has a mission: to crash the fake, dangerous, hypocritical narrative of the vegan world.
Reflecting on his daily motivation, he told VDL, the association for the German leather industry and COTANCE member: “I am highly motivated by the fact that vegan/animal rights activism is one of the biggest frauds we have seen in many years: they paint in green and give an ethical message to things which are only and merely based on profit. I am disturbed by the good faith of many people in the hands of cunning corporations. Playing the victim while making loads of money is very trendy at the moment, and I try my best to fight this”.
He says many people adopt a vegan lifestyle with noble intentions, seeking a holistic approach to improving the environment, animal welfare, and personal health. “The vegan narrative is perfect because it puts environment, climate, animals, and health together, providing a prepacked, easy solution, emphasising the benefits of choosing plant-based options which may include some commercially processed alternatives. They fell into the trap of very clever marketing”. However, he expresses concern that individuals might eventually reconsider their choices as they evaluate the long-term impacts of their dietary and lifestyle decisions on their health.
He further says: “Not everyone knows that to grow synthetic meat, its cells must be in a soup of growth hormones and antibiotics (yes, those banned and extremely reduced in animal breeding!). Not only that, but according to some studies, lab-grown meat can impact up to 50 times more than livestock farming, and to be produced, it must be grown in extremely energy-intensive bioreactors. For now, it is just another way to generate audiences, debate and polarisation. It is no coincidence that many newspaper articles have been written about this product, but very few scientific papers”.
The same can be said about “vegan leather”, whose adverse impact on the environment starts to become visible. “Vegan leather,” commonly known as ”faux leather,” is essentially plastic derived from fossil fuels, contributing significantly to climate change and ecosystem pollution. Attempts to reduce the amount of plastic, mixing it partly with agricultural produce or waste, resulted in a significant amount of these products becoming non-recyclable textile waste due to their reliance on polyurethane binders and coatings (plastic).
Such fakes quickly decompose into microplastic. Consumers need to know that more durable and sustainable options exist, like leather.
Remember: animals are not killed for leather. Their skins & hides represent on average just 1% of the animal’s economic value. Leather is just the result of a by-product of the meat industry. European Tanners transform hides & skins into sustainable fashion materials, generating wealth and jobs in Europe. That means opting for leather helps upcycle a resource that would otherwise go to waste.
The world is not black and white. Don’t become a victim of manipulating narratives that might make you feel neurotic and guilty. Make your own choices based on the evidence.
Regardless of your choice, the fact remains that leather is one of the smartest and most sustainable options a person should promote… even if you are vegan.
Edited by
In cooperation with
If you want to go further:
European Livestock Voice| Website
“Can we imagine the world without livestock?” | Article
In Defence of Meat | Book
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Towards Zero Adverse Impact of the European Leather Industry:
Final Conference
On May 16, in Brussels, the European Tanning and Leather social partners, COTANCE and industriAll Europe held the Green Deal Leather Final Conference, concluding a two-year, EU-funded Social Dialogue project ’Towards Zero Adverse Impact of the European Leather Industry – GREEN DEAL LEATHER’.
The event attracted around 100 on-site attendees and marked the end of a successful, EU-funded social dialogue project between the European social partners as well as national representatives from Spain (ACEXPIEL), Portugal (APIC), France (FFTM), Hungary (MKZS), Italy (UNIC), Germany (VDL), and Austria (FVTBSL).
The two-year EU-funded Green Deal Leather (GDL) project has, for the first time, provided comprehensive data on workplace safety within EU tanneries, detailed in the ”Injuries/Incidents at the Workplace” study released in Lineapelle/Milan on 19 September 2023.
Additionally, the project unveiled findings on the carbon footprint of leather in the ”Carbon Footprint of European Bovine Leather” study, presented at the Final Conference in Brussels on 16 May. Both studies highlighted the industry’s environmental and social credentials, providing tanneries with guidance to enhance their sustainability.
The main insights on occupational health and safety include:
Safety at the Workplace Study
Trade Union said at the Green Deal Leather Final Conference:
”Good occupational health and safety practices in the workplace, with ongoing training and checks, are essential to keep tannery workers safe. Social dialogue is key, and trade unions and workers’ representatives must be able to highlight any issues to management and know that they will be acted on swiftly. These preliminary results are a baseline and now we must work together to achieve zero accidents.”
Judith Kirton-Darling, General Secretary of industriAll European Trade Union said at the Green Deal Leather Final Conference:
”Good occupational health and safety practices in the workplace, with ongoing training and checks, are essential to keep tannery workers safe. Social dialogue is key, and trade unions and workers’ representatives must be able to highlight any issues to management and know that they will be acted on swiftly. These preliminary results are a baseline and now we must work together to achieve zero accidents.”
The main insights into the environmental impact include:
Carbon Footprint Study
Mr Manuel Rios, President of COTANCE: ”Through the Green Deal Leather project, COTANCE continues to equip European tanners with the tools and intelligence needed to progress towards a more sustainable future. We believe that transparency is key to advancing our social and environmental credentials and dispelling common misconceptions about leather. We are proud to undertake this journey hand in hand with our social partners.”
The Final Conference of the GDL project showcased the work and achievements of the social partners, who, in these last two years, have gathered and produced data that will greatly benefit the tanning and leather sector globally. By working together in social dialogue, the European leather industry produces tools and intelligence which contribute to worker safety, protect the environment, and promote sustainable, high-quality leather, supporting millions of jobs worldwide.
So, next time you’re deciding between leather and another material, remember that choosing European leather not only offers a high-quality experience that you can enjoy for a long time but also delivers a product crafted with the utmost care for both employees and the environment.
Edited by
In cooperation with
If you want to go further:
Green Deal Leather – Final Conference | Press Release
EURACTIV about us | Website
Brussels Times about us | Website
World Leather Day:
Fira läder tillsammans
Today, COTANCE joins the entire world in celebrating Leather!
On April 26, 2024, we come together as an industry to celebrate World Leather Day, honouring leather’s enduring and unique qualities. This year we are focusing on the “Repair, Reuse, Repurpose” theme emphasising the long-lasting, repairable, and versatile qualities of leather that make it the ideal material for a circular society.
So let’s explore what MORE leather can offer to YOU!
We all understand that choosing leather goes beyond selecting a beautiful and high-quality material that elevates your image and mood – it’s a bold statement to the world.
But there’s even more to it than you might realize. Whether you know it or not, with leather, you opt for a more sustainable, green, and slow-fashion world. By choosing leather, you’re not just selecting comfort and individuality for today; you’re investing in a greener, more sustainable future as leather articles can be easily repaired, reused, and repurposed, making it the best choice for sustainable practices.
Because Leather champions durability, it is natural that we keep REUSING it.
– Choosing leather allows you to REUSE it, meaning re-wearing your leather footwear naturally season after season. And if issues like worn heels or soles arise, you can have them repaired quickly and affordably in just one day at your local shoe repair workshop.
– Choosing leather allows you to REUSE it by passing your cherished leather item over from generation to generation. Think of your father’s leather briefcase, a symbol of his hard work and dedication, or the leather couch you took from home when moving into your first apartment. Quality vintage items like this never go out of fashion.
– and of course, choosing leather brings economic advantages. Extending the life of leather items means we shop less and save money (just shared one of the secrets of wealth – no need to thank us 🙂 )
For more inspiration on leather’s longevity and versatility visit the world’s first-ever digital exhibition “It’s a Long Story” by Leather Naturally.
Because Leather is ageing gracefully, it’s remarkably simple to REPAIR it.
When you repair your leather goods, you breathe new life into your favourite items, deepening the connection between you and the goods that are part of your personal story. Just as we strive to repair relationships rather than end them, fixing leather enhances its longevity and value.
Watch the Alliance France Cuir demonstration on how nice and beneficial it is to repair your leather items. Well, if a leather bag survived a 476 kg metal band saw cutting at 100 metres per minute, imagine how well it can withstand everyday wear and tear!
Or explore the 120-year-old craftsmanship of the BootRepair Company and be amazed by the heritage behind each repair. So then next time, instead of buying a new pair of shoes, consider repairing them or treating them to a leather spa experience.
Remember, by repairing your leather items, you not only reduce waste and save money but also strengthen the bond with your personal belongings.
Because leather is a very supple material, it is extremely easy to REPURPOSE it.
Leather belts can be creatively repurposed into carry bags, camera straps, stylish dog collars, or personalised bracelets. Leather wallets can be transformed into durable ties for gardening or workshops, chic pulls for DIY furniture, or elegant bookmarks.
And it’s not just individuals who are doing this; brands like Hermès are championing the reinvention of everyday objects using leather leftovers and other materials, in their Petit h atelier. They forge surprising connections between artists and craftsmen, creating new alliances between expertise and natural materials. Why not join the movement?
To start with, get inspired with Nquart’s step-by-step leather crafting guides and create your own exclusive, personalised leather items. Enjoy each stage of this creative process – give it a try and have fun!
Alternatively, discover how to upcycle your old leather jacket with just a few simple steps by watching a short video from craftsman Yusuf Osman.
The leather has so much to offer! Beyond being beautiful, natural, and durable, leather articles can be easily repaired, reused, and repurposed, making it the best choice for sustainable practices. By extending the life of leather goods, we minimise waste, reduce landfill use, and lessen environmental impact.
If leather isn’t one of the best sustainable investment decisions, we don’t know what is!
Agree? Help us spread the word to have more people celebrate the versatility and sustainability of leather!
Edited by
In cooperation with
If you want to go further:
Green Deal Leather – Final Conference | Website
Alliance France Cuir | Website
Leather Naturally | Website
Women in European Tanneries: Transforming the Leather Industry Together
Conventional wisdom holds that leather production is a male-dominated industry. Indeed, the ratio of men to women in the sector supports this. But when COTANCE set out to explore the presence of women in the leather sector, we found that not only are women present, but that these women are more than exceptional.
In celebration of Women’s Rights, which March is all about, and in partnership with our members VDL (Germany), UNIC (Italy), and FFTM (France), we dedicate our March Newsletter to the charismatic, bold, and exceptional women working in European tanneries. By sharing their personal stories, we want to encourage and inspire more women to join this vibrant industry, which still has so much to offer.
The tanning process (transforming skins and hides into leather) involves several labour-intensive steps, where men have traditionally outnumbered women. However, over the years, technological progress and process innovations have reduced the physicality of tasks and narrowed the gender gap, leading to more women working in tanneries.
Data, as highlighted in the 2020 Social & Environmental Report of the European Leather Industry, show that female personnel now constitute approximately 25% of the European workforce in tanneries. This figure can increase to 50% in certain companies where women are filling high-level management positions in marketing, communications and sustainability.
Moreover, women have a remarkable presence in European Leather Trade Associations, holding directorial roles in Italy (UNIC – Concerie Italiane), Spain (ACEXPIEL), France (FFTM), Hungary (AHLI), or Austria (FV TBSL). And in some cases, like France and Portugal, women are also chairing these organisations.
COTANCE had the opportunity to speak with some of these exceptional women in tanneries who are redefining the boundaries and expectations within this sector, and we are excited to share those conversations with you.
Women extending wet leathers on a drying device
As a fourth-generation descendant of tanners, Ulla Schiffers truly has leather in her blood. Having dedicated 42 years to the German leather industry, as a leather technician, her greatest ambition has always been ”to prove to male employees that women could bring the same competence and stamina to this challenging job”.
Leather also became a calling for Chiara Mastrotto, who, after pursuing a career in law, decided to leave it behind and join her family’s business. Starting from ”zero” and thanks to her collaborative leadership and can-do approach, she has advanced to become CEO and then the President of Gruppo Mastrotto. ”Each sector, including the leather industry, certainly has its specificities. However, I believe that in terms of opportunities, the most important aspect is to focus on merit. When merit is highlighted and becomes the driving factor behind hiring and promotions, the gender issue is also resolved”, – says Chiara.
Marie Hiriart Carriat is the third generation of tanners from the Rémy Carriat tannery, located in Espelette, Pyrénées-Atlantiques, France. Founded in 1927, this independent, family-run business employs 70 people and specializes in the tradition of bull and buffalo leather crafting for the leather goods, footwear, and furniture industries. In June 2023, she was appointed President of the Fédération Française de la Tannerie Mégisserie (FFTM).
”The REMY CARRIAT tannery has always been a place where women have played a pivotal role. My grandmother co-founded the tannery with my grandfather, Rémy Carriat. While he focused on production, she managed the administration. Subsequently, my mother worked alongside my father for many years, contributing significantly to the management and operation of the tannery. I began working with my father in 1992, initially as a sales assistant, before taking over as the head of the company in 1999”, – says Marie.
Edited excerpts of the conversation with them follow.
Ulla: ”I have been working in the chemical supply industry for many years, providing technical support for tanneries in Europe. There are hardly any other female leather technicians in these areas. The proportion of women in this job is perhaps a maximum of 5%. In our company, I am the only woman in technical support with several male colleagues.”
Chiara: ”Currently, in Gruppo Mastrotto women constitute approximately 26% of factory workers and 51% of the office employees. In top positions, we reach over 57% of female executives, and among the board members we have perfect gender equality.”
Marie: ”Today, at the Rémy Carriat tannery, there are 8 women working in production, 3 in quality control, and 5 in administration, totaling 16 out of the 75 employees in the company. This represents 21% of our workforce. Certain roles, such as those in our hand-patination studio and the quality department, are exclusively held by women.”
Hand-patination at Tannerie Remy Carriat, France
Chiara:”Our industry has made significant strides in sustainability in the recent years, with companies like Gruppo Mastrotto leading by example through investment in water and chemical reduction, recycling initiatives, and renewable energy sourcing. By fostering innovation and adopting more sustainable tanning processes, we demonstrated our commitment to environmental responsibility. Women can play a pivotal role in driving this transformation, advocating for responsible production, and engaging with stakeholders to promote sustainability”.
Ulla: ”Consumers need to be made aware that leather is an extremely durable product. So in terms of sustainability it contributes to “slow fashion”. All of us who work in the leather industry, whether female or male, must do our best to better manage resources and avoid pollution”.
Marie : ”The leather industry often faces criticism from individuals unfamiliar with our material or our processes. Addressing this misconception is crucial, regardless of one’s gender. We are a sector that adheres strictly to REACH regulations, demonstrating our commitment to environmental and social responsibilities. Despite this, we face a significant image deficit and lack of support at the European level. In countries like France and Italy, decrees protect and uphold the ’Leather’ designation, providing a level of defense for our products. However, this kind of regulatory support is absent at the European level, leaving a gap in our ability to safeguard our industry”.
Ulla: ”Leather is a fantastic natural product with outstanding properties – this uniqueness should be made clearer to the consumer”.
Marie: ”Leather is a durable, natural, and ever-evolving material that accompanies us throughout our lives, being passed down from one generation to the next. It is an exceptionally pleasing material that engages all our senses”.
Chiara: ”Leather’s sustainability, longevity, and its role within the circular economy should be emphasized, not just by tanneries but by fashion and design brands. As a by-product of the food and dairy industry, leather exemplifies sustainable practices through eco-friendly tanning and production methods, minimizing waste and environmental impact. Its durability and long-lasting nature, alongside efforts to correct misconceptions about alternatives, are key points that highlight leather’s environmental credentials”
Chiara:”My advice is to embrace opportunities for learning and innovation, to be fearless in challenging stereotypes, and to actively seek mentorship and networking. Our industry offers a dynamic environment where sustainability, craftsmanship, and technology converge, providing a rich ground for professional growth and contribution. By advocating for inclusivity, sustainability, and innovation, women can play a transformative role in shaping the future of the leather industry.
Ulla: ”I have never regretted my career choice and am still enthusiastic about working in the leather industry today. This industry impresses with its extremely informal character, its togetherness and the diverse career opportunities”
Marie: ”I would tell young women, whether or not they are initially interested, to come and discover this world. Tanning is a profession that deserves exploration. Historically, it was primarily a male-dominated field, especially in bovine tanneries like ours, due to the physical demands of working with large, heavy leathers. However, the industry has undergone significant changes over the years, becoming much more welcoming to women, particularly due to the mechanization of some tasks. The tannery offers a wealth of career opportunities, whether in production, colour work, product design, research and development, quality control, customer service, environmental management, or corporate social responsibility… and the list goes on! There are so many ways in which you can apply your skills and introduce your feminine touch to the exciting world of tannin
Traditionally perceived as male-dominated, the leather industry is experiencing a transformative shift with women increasingly occupying key roles in tanneries and directorial positions in trade associations.
Ulla Schiffers, Chiara Mastrotto and Marie Hiriart Carriat exemplify what women bring to the leather industry. Their stories of dedication, ambition, and success challenge stereotypes and highlight the importance of meritocracy, leadership, and sustainability.
The conclusion is clear: tanneries are not just places of opportunity for women; it is a sector where they are already making significant impacts and leading change. By highlighting their achievements maybe we inspire more women to join this exciting and evolving world of leather.
Edited by
In Cooperation With
If you want to go further:
VDL | Website
UNIC – Concerie Italiane | Website
FFTM | Website
Leather – a Strategic Material in Military Clothing
On February 24, 2024, the World celebrated a very sorrowful anniversary – two years since the onset of the Russo-Ukrainian war. While you may have heard about the delivery of Taurus missiles, F16 jets, and Patriot systems to Ukraine, the significance of leather as a crucial material for the military sector is likely something you haven’t heard much about.
First and foremost, leather is crucial in manufacturing military boots. Why? Because only leather ensures that soldiers don’t have to worry about their feet getting cold in winter, sweating in summer, or becoming wet during heavy rains. These boots are almost entirely made from high-performance leather, usually heavy cattle hides, and their production follows demanding standards and meticulous quality controls to fulfill the stringent requirements set for military use. Only leather can make soldier’s boots breathable, durable, waterproof, ensuring the maximum wearing comfort day in day out.
Leather is also utilised for aviators’ and military officers’ jackets, handgun holsters, gloves, belts, and various military equipment components, as well as in prosthetics and other technical applications.
For this newsletter, we engaged in numerous conversations with Ukrainian leather industry operators, but for their safety, we won’t disclose their identities.
Director of the Ukrainian Industrial Company specialising in footwear for special and military purposes: “I can’t say with certainty whether leather occupies a large share in military procurement, but there are definitively goods where you can’t do without it. For winter boots, leather is key, as it has better physical properties than any other material. Another example can be leather seats for land-based military and medical-related vehicles. Leather substitutes have proven ineffective in extreme conditions, such as explosions or shelling, where they become toxic and melt. Therefore, leather is irreplaceable on
the battlefield”.
COTANCE had also the opportunity to interview a Sergeant Major, the chief of administration from the Khmelnytskyi district division, and a Senior Soldier of the King Danylo 24th separate mechanised brigade, 46th separate battalion fighting now in the Bakhmut direction.
When asked to identify military products made from leather, they all emphasized boots, whether winter or summer, which are exclusively made from leather, followed by handgun holsters. They both noted: ”Leather is simply practical, it doesn’t need much care, it withstands extreme conditions, and is long-lasting”. ”In the 90s, as a soldier, I had more leather items, but a number of them have been replaced by other materials. Yet, when it comes to boots, nothing compares to leather”, – says Sergeant Major.
According to Ukrlegprom:
By 2022, 339 enterprises and 30.5 thousand people (23% of the total number of people employed in the light industry TCLF) were employed in the production of leather and footwear in Ukraine.
Commenting on the current situation, the Managing Director of one of the largest tanneries in Ukraine says: “There are not so many Ukrainian leather producers left, but there are over 1,000 workers in the sector making a significant contribution to Ukraine’s effort to win in the war with Russia. We supply the leather for the production of military footwear, clothing and special products”.
Following the previous statements, the Managing Director adds: “Yet, we have problems with the shortage of raw materials, chemicals and especially technologies for leather production. Difficulties with staff over the past 2 years are another challenge for leather production. Many people simply went abroad in 2022, and replacing them is a real problem, because training and preparing a specialist at any stage of leather production takes more than a month, or years, as in the case of production process technologists. But we continue to work despite this and contribute to our Victory”.
Our sources from the Ukrainian footwear sector regret that the blockade of the borders has a significant impact on logistics, which consequently impacts adversely on domestic production processes.
War is a tragedy. Yet, amidst all the suffering, leather emerges as a key material, ensuring protection and comfort to soldiers and serving as a reliable ”comrade”; that does not fail at critical battlefield moments. Indeed, the current war makes us rediscover leather as a strategically important material for domestic defense capabilities.
This newsletter also serves to remind us of the significant support Ukraine continuously needs from all of us at all fronts, including in the area of leather availability.
At a time when Europe is reflecting on the crucial need for military sovereignty, it would not be out of place to give some thought to an EU-wide approach ensuring self-sufficiency in the supply of leather for Europe’s armed forces.
Edited by
In cooperation with
If you want to go further:
Ukrlegprom | Web
United24 | Web
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In the ever-changing world of contemporary fashion, leather has always been a key material. While trends rapidly shift, the value of leather remains unchanged. It is celebrated for its strength, luxury, and most importantly, its alignment with sustainable design and slow fashion principles. That is why it is no surprise that all over the world more and more young fashion designers chose to work with leather.
This is the case for Ana Del Rio Mullarkey, a young Spanish/British designer, who recently won the Real Leather. Stay Different. International Student Design Competition 2023 in Milano and now runs her own leather fashion brand ”ANA DEL RIO” with the aim of leading ”a Leather Revolution”.
”Initially, I was attracted to leather due to its sustainability profile. As a designer trying to work with more natural materials, this durable and biodegradable solution which also adheres to a circular economy model was perfect. Then, as soon as I started working with leather I felt an instant connection to this sumptuous material and decided to use it exclusively for all my designs”, – says Ana.
Talking about her recent award-winning “El Domingo” collection, inspired by her Spanish heritage, Ana explains:
“ “El Domingo” is inspired by the quintessential Spanish Sunday traditions such as visiting the Sunday antique market which I enjoyed when growing up in Madrid. The leathercraft techniques as well as the garments’ silhouettes take references from traditional features such as the wall tiles inside classic Spanish bars or the elevated stonework surfaces on the facades of the historic buildings in my grandfather’s town.”
Read more A N A D E L R I O (@anadelrio.studio) • Foton och videor på Instagram
Moving to Eastern Europe, we find Katarzyna Ostapowicz, a Polish footwear designer and manufacturer, who serves as an inspiring example of the value placed on leather in the footwear fashion industry. With a Master’s Degree with honors in clothes, jewelry, and shoe design from the University of Fashion and Art in Lodz, Katarzyna has already earned widespread recognition as a shoe designer in Poland.
“As a designer, I am committed to ensuring that my products are of the highest quality and serve a good purpose. Natural leather possesses great advantages that meet my expectations. Footwear made from leather is comfortable, resistant to damage, and most importantly, safe for health. Natural leather is an exclusive, beautiful, and timeless material. Items made from it are always synonymous with luxury and elegance. Working with leather gives me the satisfaction and confidence of being able to offer a quality product”, – says Katarzyna.
With her recent shoe collection crafted exclusively from leather, Katarzyna says: “I partially customized it with my own prints using a UV technique. Once again, leather proved to be an unparalleled working companion, allowing me to merge my vision with this noble and irreplaceable material”.
Read more Kasia Ostapowicz
| Leather’s timeless nature is mirrored in humanity’s own evolution and innovation. Even today, leather and its sustainable features keeps inspiring young designers worldwide who are not only striving to make a statement in the fashion world but are also committed to sustainable practices. Their work with leather is a step towards a greener, carbon-neutral future, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary values. Thus, choosing to wear leather is not only historically justified, but also an environmentally responsible decision. |
| Katarzyna: “Purchasing leather shoes or accessories represents a long-term investment, offering considerable savings and environmental benefits. A pair of leather shoes can last for many years, whereas products made from synthetic materials often struggle to last even a single season”. |
| Ana: “My goal is to create contemporary, timeless leather garments and other pieces which defy fleeting trends and highlight leather’s sustainable attributes. In this world of overproduction and mass consumption I would love people to join me on my Leather Revolution and to embrace unique leather garments which can be loved and which last for many lifetimes”. |
Still unsure about choosing leather as part of your wardrobe? Discover ’Go for Slow Fashion – choose leather’ and explore another story that will encourage you to embrace more leather into your life.
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| You want to know more: Ana Del Rio ”A Leather Revolution” | Instagram Kasia Ostapowicz |Web Polish Chamber of Shoe and Leather Industry (PIPS) |Web Go for Slow Fashion – choose leather! | COTANCE Newsletter 1/2022 |
Festive Leather Treasures:
Perfect Gifts for December
There is something special in the air in December that instills a festive spirit in everyone. Crowded streets, glowing shop windows, and crowds hunting for the ideal holiday gift. Resistance is futile! So if you’re seeking a gift that your loved ones will treasure for years or a personal reward that reflects your achievements, think of leather!
Leather is a choice that never disappoints. It’s not just a gift; it’s a lasting memory, a timeless treasure and an investment.
As a living, valuable material, leather requires care and evolves just like people. It’s a statement, it reflects your personality, it boosts your confidence. As it ages, leather becomes an integral part of your personal story and treasured memories, with each scratch, crease, and patina telling its own unique narrative. And here’s something interesting: as the years pass, leather only improves, much like a person.
So why not let leather tell your exceptional story?
A leather item can symbolise the beginning of a new chapter in your life or in a special relationship. It can become an immortal symbol of love or a promise made to yourself on New Year’s Eve.
And you have plenty of choices: leather handbags, bags, wallets, or cardholders can boost your confidence and reinforce your status. Accessories such as cosmetic and toiletry bags, jewellery organizers, and belts or gloves can foster self-love. Leather charms, laptop pouches or leather trays/baskets can enhance your individuality. Meanwhile, backpacks, luggage tags, and passport covers offer added comfort, security, and a sense of self-respect.
Moreover, a leather item can become a precious heirloom worth passing down from generation to generation. Think of grandmother’s beautiful leather handbag that has been with your family for generations. Quality vintage items like this never go out of fashion! Or think about your father’s leather briefcase, a symbol of his hard work and dedication, or the leather couch you took from home when moving into your first apartment.
Why not start a family tradition by gifting a durable item? Such a gift can last for many years and serve as a constant reminder of you, your love, and your shared memories.
Therefore, choosing leather as a gift transcends mere expenditure; it’s an investment in all senses. Whether it’s purchasing a luxury bag that retains value over time or buying your child his/her first leather soccer ball, leather signifies more than just a material purchase.
It is also a significant contribution to a more sustainable, green and slow-fashion world. We do not want to annoy you with all these facts about how leather champions sustainability through its durability, biodegradability, and effective carbon storage. You can always deepen your knowledge by following the link.
What we really want is to offer you an alternative that ensures your success 🙂
Still unsure about choosing a leather gift for this festive season? Discover ’Leather for Christmas’ and explore another inspiring story that will encourage you to integrate more leather into your life.
You want to know more:
Leather for Christmas? – Of course! | COTANCE Newsletter 8/2022
Go for Slow Fashion – choose leather! | COTANCE Newsletter 1/2022
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