COTANCE News March 2025

Women in Tanneries: Special Womens’ 2nd Edition

March is all about celebrating women—their strength, their ambition, and their impact. After the overwhelming success of our March 2024 edition, we knew we had to make this a tradition. This year, we’re back, diving deeper into the untold stories of the incredible women working in the European leather industry. From breaking barriers to mastering the craft, their journeys are as bold and resilient as the leather they help create.

The second edition of our special newsletter will feature three women from Italy, Spain, and Portugal, each representing a different age group, job role, and career journey. Their stories highlight passion, resilience, and opportunity, proving that the leather industry is full of possibilities for those ready to challenge conventions.

By sharing their experiences, COTANCE hopes to inspire more women to explore careers in this evolving sector—one where talent, skill, and determination matter more than ever.

Barbara Mastrotto
ITALY

Coming from a family of pioneers in the leather industry, Barbara Mastrotto began her career at 22, working in accounting and logistics before joining the Automotive Division of Rino Mastrotto in 2004. Now Head of the Automotive & Mobility Business Unit, she champions meritocracy, ethical leadership, and sustainability, striving to balance its environmental, social, and economic pillars.

LauraCastro Gonçalves
PORTUGAL

At just 24 years old, Laura Castro Gonçalves has been part of A. Castro & Filhos for four years, gaining experience in various roles. With a degree in Marketing Management, she now leads chemicals and commercial operations, focusing on innovative and sustainable solutions for the leather industry.

Irene Tarazona
SPAIN

As HR Manager at INCUSA, Irene Tarazona is dedicated to creating a workplace where talent thrives. She actively supports women in the leather industry, ensuring equal opportunities for training and leadership. By bridging the gender gap, she helps make tanneries a more inclusive and rewarding place to work.

Your Journey into Leather: What inspired you to join the leather industry? Was it a deliberate choice, or did you discover your passion for leather along the way?

Irene: I have always found it a fascinating sector because it is related to the world of fashion, which I am passionate about. I found myself in an unknown sector that attracted me from the very first moment and that was completely different from my previous professional experiences.

Barbara: For me it was a simple and almost obvious choice. I have always heard about leather in my family and the passion for this particular product was passed on to me by my dad who is in love with leather, with the ever-evolving technology needed to process it, and with the importance of tanning in enhancing a by-product of slaughtering from the food industry.  I was very happy when he asked me to join the company to bring my own contribution, and it was in the automotive world that I found myself.

Laura:  I entered the leather industry almost by chance. After university, I started working in the family business and, over time, I realized how challenging and fascinating this sector was. Today, I love what I do and know that it is a demanding field, requiring dedication, knowledge, and constant innovation. It is an industry full of creativity and challenges.

Breaking Stereotypes: The leather industry has traditionally been male-dominated. Have you encountered challenges as a woman in this sector? How have you overcome them?

Irene: Yes, I found myself at a very young age in a mostly male sector, but that helped me to reinvent myself, to set goals and objectives at a professional level, as well as to develop new skills that have made me grow personally and professionally.

Barbara: The leather industry is a male-dominated world indeed. I have been lucky, however, because the industry I supervise is international, and I have been able to deal from the very beginning with markets such as the United States, which was more advanced in this sense, even 20 years ago, having women in leadership roles.  The Italian experience, on the other hand, was initially a bit more close-minded, but with determination, professionalism, and pragmatism it was possible to handle even some less comfy situations.

Laura: The leather industry has traditionally been male-dominated, but that has never been an obstacle for me. I work with many women, and I feel that we have an equal place alongside men, with the same opportunities to grow and innovate. I believe and know that knowledge, dedication, and results are what truly matter, and that is what allows us to establish our place in the industry.

The Beauty of Leather: What aspects of leather do you think deserve more recognition, especially among younger consumers?

Laura: Leather is a timeless and natural material that carries the history of our ancestors, reflecting generations of knowledge and craftsmanship. Behind every piece lies hard work, dedication, and skill, transforming raw material into something truly unique. Its exceptional durability allows it to last for generations without losing its quality or charm. Moreover, leather stands out for its endless creative possibilities—offering a wide range of designs, colors, and finishes—while maintaining its authentic and sustainable character.

Barbara: Innovative, sustainable, Circular, Zero waste approach, uniqueness, high performance, durability, heritage, animal well-fair … I would say all of these are features that young consumers highly appreciate. The challenge this material often faces with young people and the final market in general is getting known for what it genuinely is. It is up to us to improve in communicating and providing facts that support the value of it.

Work-Life Balance & Passion: What do you love most about working in this industry? How does your job balance technical skills, creativity, and tradition?

Laura: What fascinates me most about this industry is the perfect balance between tradition, technical expertise, and creativity. Leather carries centuries of history while offering endless possibilities for innovation. In my work, precision and attention to detail go hand in hand with the freedom to create and reinvent, making each day dynamic and inspiring.

A Message to Young Women: Many young women may not consider a career in tanneries. What would you say to those who are curious but unsure about entering this industry?

Barbara: Tannery is a challenging but at the same time fascinating industry. It can open up opportunities in different markets and roles: fashion, interiors, automotive…. and it requires different skills ranging from technical expertise to creativity …. It ’is an industry that is thrilling. The world of tanning has mellowed, and new generations have helped make it less male-oriented. There is more of a preference for teamwork, and female input is appreciated.

The conclusion is clear: European tanneries are not just places of opportunity for women; it is a sector where they are already making significant impacts and leading change. By highlighting their achievements maybe we inspire more women to join this exciting and evolving world of leather.

Read the full interviews at euroleather.com

Double-Face Leather: Simple, Warm, Sustainable

Do you think leather isn’t suitable for winter? Then you haven’t heard of double-face leather! It’s one of the warmest and most natural solutions for the season. Made primarily from sheepskin, it combines two faces in one garment: soft wool on the inside for warmth and supple leather on the outside for protection.

In the coldest northern regions, people rely on double-face coats, hats, gloves, and boots for their unmatched warmth and resilience to extreme temperatures and conditions. With double-face leather, you’ll stay cosy, comfortable, and protected—and we guarantee that you’ll truly enjoy winter, perhaps for the first time.

What is Double-Face Leather ?

Double-face leather is a natural material crafted from lamb or sheepskin, where the wool remains attached to the leather during the tanning process. This creates a garment that provides both insulation and protection in one piece, eliminating the need for additional linings. The result is an incredibly functional and versatile material that keeps you warm in the harshest conditions.

The Advantages of Double-Face Leather

1. Warm:
   • The wool interior provides natural warmth, while the leather exterior shields against wind, snow, and rain.
2. Simple:
   • Double-face leather garments are a timeless investment, built to last for decades and easy to care for. Unlike fast fashion, a quality sheepskin coat can endure over 50 years, combining style, durability, and low maintenance.
3. Sustainable:
   • Double-face leather is sustainable because it upcycles meat industry byproducts into high-quality, durable, and warm garments, reducing waste that would otherwise go to landfills.

Simple, Warm, Sustainable

Double-face on frosty, cold and windy days – no more cold ears, feet or hands – enjoy the time outside, whether you commute to work by train or bus, or go sledding with your children. With double-face leather, nature makes it easy for us to stay warm and be sustainable!

NEWS 8/2024

European Leather Industry Provides Scientific Evidence in Support of Excluding Leather from the Scope of the EUDR

Leather is not the driver of deforestation—this is obvious to anyone involved in the leather supply chain, from livestock producers to fashion brands. Yet, with leather included in the scope of the European Deforestation Regulation (EUDR), it became essential to support this fact with comprehensive analysis.

With this September newsletter, we are proud to present scientific evidence supporting the European leather industry’s position in the EUDR Review. The study, “Socio-economic and Environmental Analysis of the Effects of Regulation 2023/1115/EU on the European Leather Sector,” commissioned by UNIC and COTANCE and conducted by Sant’Anna School of Advanced Studies of the University of Pisa, was unveiled on September 18, 2024, at the Lineapelle Fair to become a game-changer in defence of our industry.

The study, structured into technical, socio-economic, and environmental assessments, reveals key findings that will be instrumental for the leather industry during the EUDR review process.

No Direct Link to Deforestation: The study, supported by an extensive technical analysis (94 million+ records, 29,200+ active serial titles, and 330,000+ books) and 28 stakeholder interviews, found no direct link between leather and deforestation. Leather is derived from cattle raised primarily for meat and dairy, and its production does not incentivise cattle farming.

• Severe Economic Impact: The EUDR’s stringent traceability requirements could severely disrupt the European cattle hide supply chain, leaving European tanners without needed raw materials. This could force businesses to close and result in significant job losses across the industry’s supply chain.
• Environmental Risks of Alternatives: The study warns that short-circuiting the European leather industry and replacing leather with synthetic alternatives like polyurethane leather-like materials (PU LLM) could increase environmental damage, in terms of higher emissions and resource use. Diverting cattle hides to landfills or to countries with weaker environmental standards would undermine the Green Deal’s goals.

At the EUDR event in Lineapelle, a panel of global industry experts unanimously agreed: including leather in the EUDR is illogical and will not reduce cattle-related deforestation. Instead, it risks disrupting supply chains and shifting production to regions with lower environmental standards. 

Panel participants from left to right: Ricardo Andrade (CICB, Brazil), Toni Baltes (German Hide Association WHL, ICHSLTA), Max Engelke (A+B-hides), Micaela Topper (AHSLEA, Australia), Kevin Latner (LHCA, USA) and Dave Harrison (Beef+Lamb, New Zealand).

COTANCE stands firm in advocating for the removal of leather from the EUDR scope, presenting the Sant’Anna study in support of its argument. This academic investigation will be providing crucial intelligence in the context of the European Commission’s review of the regulation.

Stay tuned for more updates as COTANCE continues to engage with policymakers and stakeholders to safeguard the interests of the European leather industry.

Debunking Myths: Andrea Bertaglio on the Role of Leather and Livestock in Sustainability

Andrea Bertagliois an independent journalist, spokesperson for European Livestock Voice and author of the book “In defence of Meat”. He is known for his in-depth knowledge of the meat industry and is therefore perfectly placed to give insight into the importance of livestock and leather sectors, their crucial roles in the circular economy, and their joint challenges in times of greenwashing.

Answering the question on the relationship between animal livestock and humans,Andrea Bertaglio said: “Humankind and livestock have been proceeding together since the dawn of time. Meat made us humans. Without animal foods, we couldn’t develop our brains as they are. Without hunting, we couldn’t have organised our first ways of communication and our first kind of communities and societies. And if we speak about modern farming, we speak of nutrition, culture, traditions, know-how, economy, and hundreds of other things. Livestock is an incredibly important part of human life, and I hope it can still be like that for a very long time”. Answering the question on the relationship between animal livestock and humans,

The same is true for leather, which has long been in the history of man. Findings from the archaeological site in Schöningen (Lower Saxony) show that it dates back 320 000 years. An engraving was found on the remains of a bear’s skin, which evidences that hominids in northern Europe also hunted bears and skinned them to get meat and to use their hide to protect themselves from the cold. Leather features in human history.

Old Tannery in Pompeii
Photo credits: UNIC – Concerie Italiane

“We have leather because it is a by-product from meat production. And it has been like that since prehistorical times, I suppose. One of the best and oldest examples of ”circular economy”. It simply makes sense. Otherwise, it would be like picking a fruit only to keep the peel, which is absurd. Besides, leather is a great product: instead of being disposed of as waste, hides and skins are transformed into one of the most durable, enjoyable, and sustainable products ever”, the journalist continued.

”Leather is the most bio-friendly in the car and is the most natural, sustainable, environmentally good by-product of the meat industry. The cows are not being grown for their leather”, – says nutritionist Diana Rodgers

Furthermore, leather is a natural material that can be repaired, reused, and repurposed, highlighting its crucial role in the circular economy and establishing it as a prime choice for sustainable practices. 

Despite these facts, both the leather and meat industries are facing a wave of unjustified accusations and manipulations from radical activist, vegan societies, whose deceptive narratives are likely to fall into the scope of the upcoming EU “Green Claims” Directive.

As an independent journalist, writing nearly two decades on environment and sustainability, Andrea Bertaglio has a mission: to crash the fake, dangerous, hypocritical narrative of the vegan world.

Reflecting on his daily motivation, he told VDL, the association for the German leather industry and COTANCE member: “I am highly motivated by the fact that vegan/animal rights activism is one of the biggest frauds we have seen in many years: they paint in green and give an ethical message to things which are only and merely based on profit. I am disturbed by the good faith of many people in the hands of cunning corporations. Playing the victim while making loads of money is very trendy at the moment, and I try my best to fight this”.  

He says many people adopt a vegan lifestyle with noble intentions, seeking a holistic approach to improving the environment, animal welfare, and personal health. “The vegan narrative is perfect because it puts environment, climate, animals, and health together, providing a prepacked, easy solution, emphasising the benefits of choosing plant-based options which may include some commercially processed alternatives. They fell into the trap of very clever marketing”. However, he expresses concern that individuals might eventually reconsider their choices as they evaluate the long-term impacts of their dietary and lifestyle decisions on their health.

He further says: “Not everyone knows that to grow synthetic meat, its cells must be in a soup of growth hormones and antibiotics (yes, those banned and extremely reduced in animal breeding!). Not only that, but according to some studies, lab-grown meat can impact up to 50 times more than livestock farming, and to be produced, it must be grown in extremely energy-intensive bioreactors. For now, it is just another way to generate audiences, debate and polarisation. It is no coincidence that many newspaper articles have been written about this product, but very few scientific papers”.

The same can be said about “vegan leather”, whose adverse impact on the environment starts to become visible. “Vegan leather,” commonly known as ”faux leather,” is essentially plastic derived from fossil fuels, contributing significantly to climate change and ecosystem pollution. Attempts to reduce the amount of plastic, mixing it partly with agricultural produce or waste, resulted in a significant amount of these products becoming non-recyclable textile waste due to their reliance on polyurethane binders and coatings (plastic).

Such fakes quickly decompose into microplastic. Consumers need to know that more durable and sustainable options exist, like leather.

Remember: animals are not killed for leather. Their skins & hides represent on average just 1% of the animal’s economic value. Leather is just the result of a by-product of the meat industry. European Tanners transform hides & skins into sustainable fashion materials, generating wealth and jobs in Europe. That means opting for leather helps upcycle a resource that would otherwise go to waste.

The world is not black and white. Don’t become a victim of manipulating narratives that might make you feel neurotic and guilty. Make your own choices based on the evidence.

Regardless of your choice, the fact remains that leather is one of the smartest and most sustainable options a person should promote… even if you are vegan. 

Edited by

In cooperation with

If you want to go further:
European Livestock Voice| Website 
“Can we imagine the world without livestock?” | Article
In Defence of Meat | Book

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