COTANCE News 3/2024 – March

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Women in European Tanneries: Transforming the Leather Industry Together

Conventional wisdom holds that leather production is a male-dominated industry. Indeed, the ratio of men to women in the sector supports this. But when COTANCE set out to explore the presence of women in the leather sector, we found that not only are women present, but that these women are more than exceptional.

In celebration of Women’s Rights, which March is all about, and in partnership with our members VDL (Germany), UNIC (Italy), and FFTM (France), we dedicate our March Newsletter to the charismatic, bold, and exceptional women working in European tanneries. By sharing their personal stories, we want to encourage and inspire more women to join this vibrant industry, which still has so much to offer.

The tanning process (transforming skins and hides into leather) involves several labor-intensive steps, where men have traditionally outnumbered women. However, over the years, technological progress and process innovations have reduced the physicality of tasks and narrowed the gender gap, leading to more women working in tanneries.

Data, as highlighted in the 2020 Social & Environmental Report of the European Leather Industry, show that female personnel now constitute approximately 25% of the European workforce in tanneries. This figure can increase to 50% in certain companies where women are filling high-level management positions in marketing, communications and sustainability.

Moreover, women have a remarkable presence in European Leather Trade Associations, holding directorial roles in Italy (UNIC – Concerie Italiane), Spain (ACEXPIEL), France (FFTM), Hungary (AHLI), or Austria (FV TBSL). And in some cases, like France and Portugal, women are also chairing these organizations.

COTANCE had the opportunity to speak with some of these exceptional women in tanneries who are redefining the boundaries and expectations within this sector, and we are excited to share those conversations with you.

Women extending wet leathers on a drying device

As a fourth-generation descendant of tanners, Ulla Schiffers truly has leather in her blood. Having dedicated 42 years to the German leather industry, as a leather technician, her greatest ambition has always been “to prove to male employees that women could bring the same competence and stamina to this challenging job”.

Leather also became a calling for Chiara Mastrotto, who, after pursuing a career in law, decided to leave it behind and join her family’s business. Starting from “zero” and thanks to her collaborative leadership and can-do approach, she has advanced to become CEO and then the President of Gruppo Mastrotto. “Each sector, including the leather industry, certainly has its specificities. However, I believe that in terms of opportunities, the most important aspect is to focus on merit. When merit is highlighted and becomes the driving factor behind hiring and promotions, the gender issue is also resolved”, – says Chiara.

Marie Hiriart Carriat is the third generation of tanners from the Rémy Carriat tannery, located in Espelette, Pyrénées-Atlantiques, France. Founded in 1927, this independent, family-run business employs 70 people and specializes in the tradition of bull and buffalo leather crafting for the leather goods, footwear, and furniture industries. In June 2023, she was appointed President of the Fédération Française de la Tannerie Mégisserie (FFTM).

“The REMY CARRIAT tannery has always been a place where women have played a pivotal role. My grandmother co-founded the tannery with my grandfather, Rémy Carriat. While he focused on production, she managed the administration. Subsequently, my mother worked alongside my father for many years, contributing significantly to the management and operation of the tannery. I began working with my father in 1992, initially as a sales assistant, before taking over as the head of the company in 1999”, – says Marie.

Edited excerpts of the conversation with them follow.

  • How many women are employed in your company/tannery? If possible, could you compare the % of total female workers in the tannery to the % of women working at the management level?

Ulla: “I have been working in the chemical supply industry for many years, providing technical support for tanneries in Europe. There are hardly any other female leather technicians in these areas. The proportion of women in this job is perhaps a maximum of 5%. In our company, I am the only woman in technical support with several male colleagues.”

Chiara: “Currently, in Gruppo Mastrotto women constitute approximately 26% of factory workers and 51% of the office employees. In top positions, we reach over 57% of female executives, and among the board members we have perfect gender equality.”

Marie: “Today, at the Rémy Carriat tannery, there are 8 women working in production, 3 in quality control, and 5 in administration, totaling 16 out of the 75 employees in the company. This represents 21% of our workforce. Certain roles, such as those in our hand-patination studio and the quality department, are exclusively held by women.”

Hand-patination at Tannerie Remy Carriat, France:

  • The leather industry faces criticism for its environmental impact. How do you think the industry, and women in particular, can contribute to more sustainable practices?

Chiara:“Our industry has made significant strides in sustainability in the recent years, with companies like Gruppo Mastrotto leading by example through investment in water and chemical reduction, recycling initiatives, and renewable energy sourcing. By fostering innovation and adopting more sustainable tanning processes, we demonstrated our commitment to environmental responsibility. Women can play a pivotal role in driving this transformation, advocating for responsible production, and engaging with stakeholders to promote sustainability”.

Ulla: “Consumers need to be made aware that leather is an extremely durable product. So in terms of sustainability it contributes to “slow fashion”. All of us who work in the leather industry, whether female or male, must do our best to better manage resources and avoid pollution”.

Marie: “The leather industry often faces criticism from individuals unfamiliar with our material or our processes. Addressing this misconception is crucial, regardless of one’s gender. We are a sector that adheres strictly to REACH regulations, demonstrating our commitment to environmental and social responsibilities. Despite this, we face a significant image deficit and lack of support at the European level. In countries like France and Italy, decrees protect and uphold the ‘Leather’ designation, providing a level of defense for our products. However, this kind of regulatory support is absent at the European level, leaving a gap in our ability to safeguard our industry”.

  • What characteristics or aspects of leather do you think should be promoted?

Ulla: “Leather is a fantastic natural product with outstanding properties – this uniqueness should be made clearer to the consumer”.

Marie: “Leather is a durable, natural, and ever-evolving material that accompanies us throughout our lives, being passed down from one generation to the next. It is an exceptionally pleasing material that engages all our senses”.

Chiara: “Leather’s sustainability, longevity, and its role within the circular economy should be emphasized, not just by tanneries but by fashion and design brands. As a by-product of the food and dairy industry, leather exemplifies sustainable practices through eco-friendly tanning and production methods, minimizing waste and environmental impact. Its durability and long-lasting nature, alongside efforts to correct misconceptions about alternatives, are key points that highlight leather’s environmental credentials”

  • What advice would you give to young women interested in entering the leather industry?

Chiara:“My advice is to embrace opportunities for learning and innovation, to be fearless in challenging stereotypes, and to actively seek mentorship and networking. Our industry offers a dynamic environment where sustainability, craftsmanship, and technology converge, providing a rich ground for professional growth and contribution. By advocating for inclusivity, sustainability, and innovation, women can play a transformative role in shaping the future of the leather industry.

Ulla: “I have never regretted my career choice and am still enthusiastic about working in the leather industry today. This industry impresses with its extremely informal character, its togetherness and the diverse career opportunities”

Marie: “I would tell young women, whether or not they are initially interested, to come and discover this world. Tanning is a profession that deserves exploration. Historically, it was primarily a male-dominated field, especially in bovine tanneries like ours, due to the physical demands of working with large, heavy leathers. However, the industry has undergone significant changes over the years, becoming much more welcoming to women, particularly due to the mechanization of some tasks. The tannery offers a wealth of career opportunities, whether in production, color work, product design, research and development, quality control, customer service, environmental management, or corporate social responsibility… and the list goes on! There are so many ways in which you can apply your skills and introduce your feminine touch to the exciting world of tannin

Traditionally perceived as male-dominated, the leather industry is experiencing a transformative shift with women increasingly occupying key roles in tanneries and directorial positions in trade associations.

Ulla Schiffers, Chiara Mastrotto and Marie Hiriart Carriat exemplify what women bring to the leather industry. Their stories of dedication, ambition, and success challenge stereotypes and highlight the importance of meritocracy, leadership, and sustainability.

The conclusion is clear: tanneries are not just places of opportunity for women; it is a sector where they are already making significant impacts and leading change. By highlighting their achievements maybe we inspire more women to join this exciting and evolving world of leather.

Edited by:

In Cooperation With:

If you want to go further:
VDL | Web sitewebsite
UNIC – Italian Concerie | Web sitewebsite
FFTM | Website

Cotance Newsletter February 2024

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Leather – a Strategic Material in Military Clothing

On February 24, 2024, the World celebrated a very sorrowful anniversary – two years since the onset of the Russo-Ukrainian war. While you may have heard about the delivery of Taurus missiles, F16 jets, and Patriot systems to Ukraine, the significance of leather as a crucial material for the military sector is likely something you haven’t heard much about.

First and foremost, leather is crucial in manufacturing military boots. Why? Because only leather ensures that soldiers don’t have to worry about their feet getting cold in winter, sweating in summer, or becoming wet during heavy rains. These boots are almost entirely made from high-performance leather, usually heavy cattle hides, and their production follows demanding standards and meticulous quality controls to fulfill the stringent requirements set for military use. Only leather can make soldier’s boots breathable, durable, waterproof, ensuring the maximum wearing comfort day in day out.

Leather is also utilized for aviators’ and military officers’ jackets, handgun holsters, gloves, belts, and various military equipment components, as well as in prosthetics and other technical applications.

For this newsletter, we engaged in numerous conversations with Ukrainian leather industry operators, but for their safety, we won’t disclose their identities.

Director of the Ukrainian Industrial Company specializing in footwear for special and military purposes: “I can’t say with certainty whether leather occupies a large share in military procurement, but there are definitively goods where you can’t do without it. For winter boots, leather is key, as it has better physical properties than any other material. Another example can be leather seats for land-based military and medical-related vehicles. Leather substitutes have proven ineffective in extreme conditions, such as explosions or shelling, where they become toxic and melt. Therefore, leather is irreplaceable on
the battlefield “.

COTANCE had also the opportunity to interview a Sergeant Major, the chief of administration from the Khmelnytskyi district division, and a Senior Soldier of the King Danylo 24th separate mechanized brigade, 46th separate battalion fighting now in the Bakhmut direction.

When asked to identify military products made from leather, they all emphasized boots, whether winter or summer, which are exclusively made from leather, followed by handgun holsters. They both noted: “Leather is simply practical, it doesn’t need much care, it withstands extreme conditions, and is long-lasting. “In the 90s, as a soldier, I had more leather items, but a number of them have been replaced by other materials. Yet, when it comes to boots, nothing compares to leather” , – says Sergeant Major.

According to Ukrlegprom:
By 2022, 339 enterprises and 30.5 thousand people (23% of the total number of people employed in the light industry TCLF) were employed in the production of leather and footwear in Ukraine.

Commenting on the current situation, the Managing Director of one of the largest tanneries in Ukraine says: “There are not so many Ukrainian leather producers left, but there are over 1,000 workers in the sector making a significant contribution to Ukraine’s effort to win in the war with Russia. We supply the leather for the production of military footwear, clothing and special products”.

Following the previous statements, the Managing Director adds: “Yet, we have problems with the shortage of raw materials, chemicals and especially technologies for leather production. Difficulties with staff over the past 2 years are another challenge for leather production. Many people simply went abroad in 2022, and replacing them is a real problem, because training and preparing a specialist at any stage of leather production takes more than a month, or years, as in the case of production process technologists. But we continue to work despite this and contribute to our Victory”.

Our sources from the Ukrainian footwear sector regret that the blockade of the borders has a significant impact on logistics, which consequently impacts adversely on domestic production processes.

War is a tragedy. Yet, amidst all the suffering, leather emerges as a key material, ensuring protection and comfort to soldiers and serving as a reliable “comrade”; that does not fail at critical battlefield moments. Indeed, the current war makes us rediscover leather as a strategically important material for domestic defense capabilities.

This newsletter also serves to remind us of the significant support Ukraine continuously needs from all of us at all fronts, including in the area of leather availability.

At a time when Europe is reflecting on the crucial need for military sovereignty, it would not be out of place to give some thought to an EU-wide approach ensuring self-sufficiency in the supply of leather for Europe’s armed forces.

Edited by

In cooperation with;

If you want to go further:
Ukrlegprom | Web
United24 | Web
Humanitarian Aid | Website

Read more linguistic versions and former Newsletters.

Cotance Newsletter January 2024

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In the ever-changing world of contemporary fashion, leather has always been a key material. While trends rapidly shift, the value of leather remains unchanged. It is celebrated for its strength, luxury, and most importantly, its alignment with sustainable design and slow fashion principles. That is why it is no surprise that all over the world more and more young fashion designers chose to work with leather.

This is the case for Ana Del Rio Mullarkey, a young Spanish/British designer, who recently won the Real Leather. Stay Different. International Student Design Competition 2023 in Milan and now runs her own leather fashion brand “ANA DEL RIO” with the aim of leading “a Leather Revolution”.

“Initially, I was attracted to leather due to its sustainability profile. As a designer trying to work with more natural materials, this durable and biodegradable solution which also adheres to a circular economy model was perfect. Then, as soon as I started working with leather I felt an instant connection to this sumptuous material and decided to use it exclusively for all my designs” , – says Ana.

Talking about her recent award-winning “El Domingo” collection, inspired by her Spanish heritage, Ana explains:

“El Domingo” is inspired by the quintessential Spanish Sunday traditions such as visiting the Sunday antique market which I enjoyed when growing up in Madrid. The leathercraft techniques as well as the garments’ silhouettes take references from traditional features such as the wall tiles inside classic Spanish bars or the elevated stonework surfaces on the facades of the historic buildings in my grandfather’s town.”

See more at https://www.instagram.com/anadelrio.studio/

Moving to Eastern Europe, we find Katarzyna Ostapowicz, a Polish footwear designer and manufacturer, who serves as an inspiring example of the value placed on leather in the footwear fashion industry. With a Master’s Degree with honors in clothes, jewelry, and shoe design from the University of Fashion and Art in Lodz, Katarzyna has already earned widespread recognition as a shoe designer in Poland.

“As a designer, I am committed to ensuring that my products are of the highest quality and serve a good purpose. Natural leather possesses great advantages that meet my expectations. Footwear made from leather is comfortable, resistant to damage, and most importantly, safe for health. Natural leather is an exclusive, beautiful, and timeless material. Items made from it are always synonymous with luxury and elegance. Working with leather gives me the satisfaction and confidence of being able to offer a quality product”, – says Katarzyna.

With her recent shoe collection crafted exclusively from leather, Katarzyna says: “I partially customized it with my own prints using a UV technique. Once again, leather proved to be an unparalleled working companion, allowing me to merge my vision with this noble and irreplaceable material”.

Read more Kasia Ostapowicz

Leather’s timeless nature is mirrored in humanity’s own evolution and innovation. Even today, leather and its sustainable features keeps inspiring young designers worldwide who are not only striving to make a statement in the fashion world but are also committed to sustainable practices.

Their work with leather is a step towards a greener, carbon-neutral future, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary values. Thus, choosing to wear leather is not only historically justified, but also an environmentally responsible decision.
Katarzyna: “Purchasing leather shoes or accessories represents a long-term investment, offering considerable savings and environmental benefits. A pair of leather shoes can last for many years, whereas products made from synthetic materials often struggle to last even a single season”.
Ana: “My goal is to create contemporary, timeless leather garments and other pieces which defy fleeting trends and highlight leather’s sustainable attributes. In this world of overproduction and mass consumption I would love people to join me on my Leather Revolution and to embrace unique leather garments which can be loved and which last for many lifetimes”.

Still unsure about choosing leather as part of your wardrobe? Discover‘Go for Slow Fashion – choose leather‘ and explore another story that will encourage you to embrace more leather into your life.

Edited by

In corporation with

You want to know more:
Ana Del Rio “A Leather Revolution” | Instagram
Kasia Ostapowicz |Web
Polish Chamber of Shoe and Leather Industry (PIPS) |Web
Go for Slow Fashion – choose leather! | COTANCE Newsletter 1/2022

COTANCE News 5/2023 – December

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Festive Leather Treasures:
Perfect Gifts for December

There is something special in the air in December that instills a festive spirit in everyone. Crowded streets, glowing shop windows, and crowds hunting for the ideal holiday gift. Resistance is futile! So if you’re seeking a gift that your loved ones will treasure for years or a personal reward that reflects your achievements, think of leather!

Leather is a choice that never disappoints. It’s not just a gift; it’s a lasting memory, a timeless treasure and an investment.

As a living, valuable material, leather requires care and evolves just like people. It’s a statement, it reflects your personality, it boosts your confidence. As it ages, leather becomes an integral part of your personal story and treasured memories, with each scratch, crease, and patina telling its own unique narrative. And here’s something interesting: as the years pass, leather only improves, much like a person.

So why not let leather tell your exceptional story?

A leather item can symbolize the beginning of a new chapter in your life or in a special relationship. It can become an immortal symbol of love or a promise made to yourself on New Year’s Eve.

And you have plenty of choices: leather handbags, bags, wallets, or cardholders can boost your confidence and reinforce your status. Accessories such as cosmetic and toiletry bags, jewellery organizers, and belts or gloves can foster self-love. Leather charms, laptop pouches or leather trays/baskets can enhance your individuality. Meanwhile, backpacks, luggage tags, and passport covers offer added comfort, security, and a sense of self-respect.

Moreover, a leather item can become a precious heirloom worth passing down from generation to generation. Think of grandmother’s beautiful leather handbag that has been with your family for generations. Quality vintage items like this never go out of fashion! Or think about your father’s leather briefcase, a symbol of his hard work and dedication, or the leather couch you took from home when moving into your first apartment.

Why not start a family tradition by gifting a durable item? Such a gift can last for many years and serve as a constant reminder of you, your love, and your shared memories.

Therefore, choosing leather as a gift transcends mere expenditure; it’s an investment in all senses. Whether it’s purchasing a luxury bag that retains value over time or buying your child his/her first leather soccer ball, leather signifies more than just a material purchase.

It is also a significant contribution to a more sustainable, green and slow-fashion world. We do not want to annoy you with all these facts about how leather champions sustainability through its durability, biodegradability, and effective carbon storage. You can always deepen your knowledge by following the link.

What we really want is to offer you an alternative that ensures your success 🙂

Still unsure about choosing a leather gift for this festive season? Discover ‘Leather for Christmas’ and explore another inspiring story that will encourage you to integrate more leather into your life.

You want to know more:
Leather for Christmas – Of course! | COTANCE Newsletter 8/2022
Go for Slow Fashion – choose leather! | COTANCE Newsletter 1/2022

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European workshop on accidents/injuries at the workplace

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NEWS 3/2023

European workshop on accidents/injuries at the workplace

On September 19, 2023, on the premises of Lineapelle, the international leather fair in Milan, the European social partners for the tanning and leather sector, COTANCE and industriAll European Trade Union, held a European workshop to review the state of play in Workplace Safety in European Tanneries.

The workshop, developed as part of the EU-funded social dialogue project ”Towards Zero Adverse Impact of the European Leather Industry – GREEN DEAL LEATHER”, brought together employers, trade unions and other stakeholders to review the results of a study on Injuries/Incidents at the workplace and discuss how to progress towards “Zero Impact”.

(Left to right) Manuel Rios (President of COTANCE), Patrizia Pitronaci (industriAll-Europe), Gustavo Gonzalez-Quijano (COTANCE), Silvia Pedrana (UNIC)

Opening the event, Manuel Rios, President of COTANCE, said:

“Our common ambition is to drive positive change in the global leather industry by “leading by example”. The present report pulls together all sector-specific information on tannery workplace accidents in Europe for better understanding them and drawing lessons for improved workplace safety in tanneries.”

COTANCE’s Secretary General, Gustavo Gonzalez-Quijano, explained the context of the Green Deal Leather project, emphasizing: “Since COTANCE started the Social Sectoral Dialogue with its Trade Union counterparts some 25 years ago, workers’ health and safety has always been at the top of our agenda. We understand that this concern ought to be the first priority when it comes to implementing Due Diligence in leather supply chains, as any accident at the workplace is irremediably a failure, with adverse consequences, above all, for the victim, but also for the employer.”

With 1102 accidents in 2021, the incidence of accidents at work in European tanneries is 3,2%. This figure includes accidents on the way to or from the workplace. Serious accidents are rare, most are wounds (49%), including superficial cuts concerning mainly the upper limbs (47%) with half involving hands (23%). From 2019 to 2021 accidents have decreased by 16% (both female and males).

In the words of Judith Kirston-Darling, Deputy General Secretary ofindustriAll-Europe:

“Quality social dialogue is essential to ensure a safe tanning and leather sector in Europe. We encourage all employers to produce relevant data on occupational health and safety issues and to work closely with workers and their representatives at site level to ensure that all workers are properly trained, and that adequate health and safety measures are fully respected by both sides. By working together in an open and positive manner, we can eliminate accidents in the workplace and keep workers safe.”

The Green Deal Leather study on “Injuries/Incidents at the workplace” is available for download on COTANCE’s website.

A recording of the Workshop is available on our You Tube channel.

edited by

The sole responsibility for the content of this newsletter lies with the authors. It does not represent the opinion of the EU. The European Commission is not responsible for any use that may be made of the information contained therein.

History and leather

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The archaeological site in Schöningen (Lower Saxony) has already brought back various evidence from the Lower Paleolithic over the years: spears, arrows, sticks. More recently, researchers have focused on some bear remains: they date back 320,000 years and are particularly interesting because they carry engraving traces.
They are evidence, quite rare for that time, that hominids in northern Europe also hunted and skinned bears in order to protect themselves from the cold. Leather features in human history.
Leather has long been in the history of man, and the study of leatherworking methods shows the evolution of traditional methods through to the modern processing methods used today. This is why the discovery in Spain of a hip bone of a large mammal (horse or bison) used for punching hides has aroused some excitement: it dates back 39,600 years and testifies to the method of stitching leather clothing.

Leather is a noble and versatile material: there is no civilization that has not made great use of it. But leather is a biological material, as is well known, and therefore certain artifacts have been allowed to reach us only by accident. Certainly, monumental or artistic applications have been preserved and retained, such as Renaissance corami.

But so many everyday objects have been lost. When some of them are found, because the item happened to be in a sufficiently arid or oxygen-deprived environment for it not to come undone, it opens incredible windows into past eras. One cannot remain indifferent to the 3,500-year-old Egyptian footwear, or the fourth-century A.D. Viking sandal that ended up who knows how on a Norwegian peak to the two-millennia-old British toy.

Leather manufacturing over the centuries has shaped the territories. Each town had its own production sites and its own typicality, in a pattern of development that harmonized urban design and sense of community. UNIC-Italian Tanneries took charge of the restoration of a tannery in Pompeii, a location as unique as the archaeological excavation that hosts it.

Similar connections between cities and tanneries can be found all over the world and cut across eras. Some evidence suggests that from the 18th century onward Belfast grew up around leather laboratories, in Guadalcanal (Spain) an open-air museum has been set up so that recently discovered medieval tanneries can be visited, and in Milan, a city with many waterways that lent itself well to leather-working activities, vestiges of the classical and late antique periods are being studied and celebrated, again with the support of UNIC.

Leather is so much a part of human history that, sometimes, we also come across curious coincidences. It happens, to take one example, that Hermès opens a new atelier in France, where archaeological studies show that hunter-gatherers were already working with animal dermis 13,000 years ago. But the relationship between leather and history is not only to be read in the past: it is also to the future. The next chapters are yet to be written.

Edited in july 2023 by





In colaboration with

Leather and Alternatives

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Our German member Verband der Deutschen Lederindustrie e.V. (VDL) has been added to the list of qualified trade associations under the German Unfair Competition Act(Gesetz gegen den unlauteren Wettbewerb) and is now authorized to issue legal warnings to companies using the word leather in a misleading way in their advertising. In COTANCE, we care about transparency, and we fight against unfair claims. We are not doing this to make money or gain notoriety, but simply because our affiliated companies are harmed when others misuse the term leather. Let us be clear, we are not against leather alternatives – but we are against consumer deception. That is why it is sometimes worthwhile for us to take note of what others are doing.

A former Adidas marketing executive, Eric Liedtke gives us food for thought in “Microplastics are becoming an omnipresent killing machine”, an interview published in “Brand Eins” (issue 2/23).

For starters, he doesn’t like the term sustainability, arguing that it needs to be explained and only makes sense if companies outline exactly which measures they are taking and which they are not. We can only agree.

Liedtke describes PET (polyethylene terephthalate ) as an eternal material that never completely disappears. It eventually decomposes into microplastics and enters our food chain, our bloodstream and our lungs via soil, air and water. He therefore calls microplastics an omnipresent killing machine and can imagine that in the future recycled plastic will no longer be considered sustainable. Here, too, we can only agree.

Therefore he advises a shift to plant and mineral materials, which at the end of their use do not turn into waste,but return to the earth. Here, we would like to add animal-based materials.

Liedtke also estimates that as a consumer you need a doctorate if you want to find your way through sustainability smokescreens such as compostable, regenerative or recycled. Many buyers of jerseys made from recycled PET would be surprised to learn that they pump more microplastics into the environment with the recycled jersey than with a jersey made from new PET fibres. Also, here we can only agree. Advertising is advertising and rarely serious science.

While Liedtke attests that customers are interested in environmentally friendly products, he notes that recycled plastic is still plastic. Indeed, there are no simple solutions.

His brief description of marketing is also interesting: “How do you make an object of desire out of a random product that ultimately nobody needs? Through good storytelling”. Often, leather is misrepresented to tell stories about other materials and it is here that COTANCE and its members step in to make sure that truth about leather is understood.

An insightful article that evidences that there are many ways to make the world a better place. None is easy or perfect, but some are deceptive and using incorrect means. And even though Liedtke did not mention leather in the interview, leather, as a natural material, used since the eve of time, is one of these ways!

Edited in March 2023 by

in collaboration with

Dying for leather

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This kind of rhetoric is often heard when people talk about desirable bags, shoes, saddles, jackets, sofas… They must own them, they “can’t live without them”, but of course nobody would actually die for them.

Now, whether people “live or die” for leather or not, certain activist groups claim that “every year a billion animals are killed for leather”. Can this be true? The answer is clearly, NO!

But where does that statement come from? Who knows… But the intention behind it is clear; to undermine the good reputation of leather in the belief that it will hurt the meat industry.

However, let’s look at the facts. The vast majority of leathers comes from hides and skins of cattle, sheep, goats and pigs (as people can find out by searching on the Internet). These farm animals are kept because they provide milk and meat for human consumption, and they often graze on land that is not suitable for crops (e.g. steppe, grassland). However, these animals are killed for meat for human nutrition, not for the production of leather. The hide or the skin is just a by-product and thanks to their processing into leather, they do not become waste.
Since cattle are larger than sheep and goats, most leather comes from cattle. According to the WWF, there are 1.6 billion cattle on the planet, and according to the FAO 293 million were slaughtered in 2020.

Still not sure? Cattle weighs anything between 200 to over a 1000 kg. The hide is only 7% of the weight and 1% of the value. What do think happens to the rest of the animal. Does anyone believe that 100s of kg of meat, bones, and offal are thrown away while only the hide is kept for leather? Imagine the waste mountain.

If we want to make the world a better place, we need reliable information. That is information on which we can build an opinion. One thing is irrefutable; Hides & skins are by-products of milk and meat production and it is better to use them as leather than to turn them into waste.

Edited in October 2022 by

in collaboration with

Avoid microplastics, choose leather

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Leather imitations, such so-called ‘vegan leather’ and ‘eco-leather’, are usually made from polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Recently they include plastics incorporating plant-based materials.

As long as these fossil fuel-based derivatives remain cheap, their use will increase, with the associated environmental impacts during their use and at the end of their life. Unlike leather, synthetic polymers are prone to shedding microfibres and do not degrade easily in nature. When disposed of, typically after a short use period, they tend to remain in the environment for a very long time, emitting harmful substances and polluting the environment. A growing amount of microplastics (fragments of plastics less than 5 mm) in marine and freshwaters has been shown by numerous studies(link1, link2).

Are our clothes and footwear also responsible for microplastics?
The most common sources of microplastic pollution are polypropylene in packaging materials and PET used in the manufacture of bottles. PET from plastic bottles is increasingly recycled into clothing and footwear, but recycling after this second lifecycle has not yet been solved.

Animals and people may inhale microparticles or ingest them with food and water. Tiny particles of microplastics have been found in crustaceans and other aquatic life at the very start of the food chain. Scientist analyzed blood samples of healthy adult donors and found microplastic particles in most samples(link3).

Microplastics get into nature when plastic waste breaks down, from tyre abrasion, but also when clothing made of synthetic fibers is washed. The proportion of microplastics from clothing might be small, but it goes straight into wastewater and the environment. Abrasion of plastic soles can also cause microplastic pollution.

So what does microplastic have to do with leather? Leather is the natural alternative to plastic!
Choosing leather in consumer products make them not only more appealing, but helps curb microplastic pollution. Indeed, leather is the result of the recycling of a residue of meat production, it does not cause microplastics shedding and at the end of a very long lifecycle, is capable of biodegrading providing micronutrients for plant growth.

You do a good thing for the planet if you chose leather shoes, leather clothes or bags. You reduce a waste from livestock, support a recycling industry that creates beauty

Edited in June 2022 by

in collaboration with

European Tanners are modern Alchemists

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Some encounters are real experiences; they make us feel good and won’t be forgotten. Among them is the experience of leather. Soft, firm, supple, and strong, leather comes with special sensory properties. It is has an appearance, a smell, a touch, a sound that appeals to our senses.

These sensations, so specific to leather, would not be possible without the transformation of an animal skin into a noble material. Through the tanning process, the skin is transformed into the rot-proof and highly durable material, with many properties we know as leather. This process has always fascinated man. Surrounded by poetry and mystery, it has been the subject of much research so that it could be better understood and improved. This research is the prerogative of tanners, the true alchemists of tanning.

Let’s consider the current processes for tanning leather:


Chrome Tanning:

Thanks to this type of tanning, using chromium III salts, leathers become supple, very resistant to friction and heat, and waterproof, and can be dyed in a wide range of colors. This is why 85% of leathers tanned in the world are chrome tanned.

In recent years, due to the risk of the formation of chromium VI, a skin-sensitising contaminant, chrome tanning has had a bad press. However, this is only an issue in poorly made leather. The risk can be well managed by the implementation of measures and controls to ensure consumer safety, as is the case in Europe. This is enforced by the restriction on chromium VI in leather, implemented in the EU REACH regulations.

Synthetic Tanning:

Some tanners practice chrome-free tanning, called synthetic tanning. This process is based on chemistry, using substances that interact with the collagen of the skin and tan it. The resulting leather has different properties to chrome-tanned leather. This means that leather made using these tanning materials may not be suitable for all the applications of chrome-tanned leather. Conversely, synthetically-tanned leathers may perform better in some applications. European tanners are working with their technical centres and chemicals suppliers to expand the options and applications of synthetic tanning.

Vegetable Tanning:
Vegetable tanning was already introduced in our previous Newsletter.

With its characteristic smell, its warm colors that deepen over time and this beautiful ageing effect called “patina”, vegetable-tanned leather embodies the very essence of this age-old material.

In conclusion, there is no competition between the different types of tanning; they offer a range of possibilities underlining the complexity and subtlety of the tanners’ know-how. Giving leather special properties shows the true skills of a tanner!

European tanners are modern alchemists. They know how to mix these tanning and retanning processes to make unique leathers, but also work ethically and responsibly while respecting people and the environment.

Edited in May 2022 by

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